Saint Louis Cemetery No. 1

In 1788, New Orleans lost many citizens to an epidemic and a great fire. The existing St. Peter Street cemetery, established at the edge of the early city, but just within the ramparts was filled. Common belief that interring the dead among the living contributed to outbreaks of disease, the Cabildo, following Spanish Royal decree, ordered a new cemetery to be established outside the city limits. St. Louis Cemetery, now called St. Louis Cemetery Number 1, was established in 1789 to the north of the city, outside the ramparts in the area now bound by Basin, Conti, Tremé and St. Louis streets.

Saint Louis Cemetery No. 1 was listed on National Register of Historic Places in 1975. It just recently (March 2004) benefited from a big restoration project.

Saint Louis Cemetery is supposedly haunted by the ghosts of Marie Laveau, a Voodoo priestess, and her daughter, both are buried in this cemetery. Supposedly they return to life each St. John's Eve and lead their faithful voodoo practitioners in a wild ceremony/orgy. The area in front of her grave is filled with all sorts of gifts left by cemetery visitors - beads, herbs, bricks wrapped in foil, dried beans, bones, etc. Also, her tomb is covered in small x's or crosses...people draw them on the tomb for luck. It's also said that if you turn around three times, either clockwise or counter clockwise, in front of her tomb and then knock on it three times your wish will be granted.

It is also the most famous and dangerous cemetery in New Orleans, visit at your own rist or take a tour; but do not venture alone or at night.

Significant Inhabitants of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1

Saint Louis Cemetery No. 1 is a microcosm of New Orleans history. The diversity and integration of the early city's population is as evident in death as it is in life. Some of its more famous inhabitants include:

1. Barbarin Family - One of the most significant New Orleans jazz dynasties. Tomb #218.

2. Etienne de Boré (1741-1820) - New Orleans' first mayor. He is credited with being the first person to successfully granulate sugar. His grandson, Charles Gayarré, a noted Louisiana historian, is also buried in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Tomb #224.

3. Blaize Cenas (1776-1812), Dr. Augustus Cenas (1809-1878) - Blaize Cenas was the first Postmaster General of the New Orleans. Tomb #108.

4. Eliza Lewis Claiborne (1784-1804) - First wife of William C.C. Claiborne, the first American Governor of Louisiana. Also entombed here are her son and her brother, Micajah Green Lewis, who died in a duel defending the honor of his brother-in-law, the governor. Tomb #640.

5. Clarice Durlade Claiborne (1788-1809) - The second wife of William C.C. Claiborne, Governor of the territory of New Orleans. Tomb #589.

6. Daniel Clark (?-1812), Myra Clark Gaines (1810-1887) - Daniel Clark was the American Consul when Spain ruled New Orleans, and later the Territorial Delegate to Congress. Myra Clark Gaines, his illegitimate daughter, gained notoriety due a court case regarding her claim to Clark's large land tracts after his death, resulting in expensive litigation which lasted over 65 years. Tomb #590.

7. Pierre Derbigny (?-1829) - A noted jurist who, along with Louis Moreau-Lislet, drew up the Civil Code of Louisiana. He was Governor of the state from 1828 until his death in 1829. Tomb #476.

8. Colonel Michael Fortier (1750-1819) - Royal armourer and soldier. Fortier fought with the Spanish under Galvez, aiding in the capture of Manchac and Baton Rouge, LA, from the British. He later became a member of the first New Orleans city council. Tomb #81.

9. Grima Family - A prominent family descending from Albert Xavier Grima who emigrated from Malta in 1780. Descendants include a notary, a lawyer, a judge, an ophthalmologist, and a writer. Tomb #72.

10. Benjamin Latrobe (1764-1820) - Founder of the architectural profession in the United States. He was buried in the Protestant section, but only a plaque stands in his memory, as his remains may have been lost when graves were moved. Location unknown.

11. Marie Laveau (1794-1881) - Well known Voodoo Queen. Her remains are reputed to be interred in the Glapion family tomb, although there is no solid proof. Tomb #347.

12. Louis Moreau-Lislet (1767-1832) - Co-author of the Louisiana Civil Codes of 1808 and 1825. Tomb #105.

13. Bernard de Marigny (1788-1871) - Wealthy French landowner who participated in early Louisiana government. He lost most of his wealth through gambling. He is credited with introducing the game of craps to the United States. Tomb #606.

14. Dr. Joseph Montegut (1735-1819); Edward Montegut (1806-1880) - Dr. Joseph Montegut was a leading physician and surgeon in Charity Hospital and proponent for the establishment of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 outside the city. His grandson, Edward, was mayor of New Orleans from 1844-1846. Tomb #144.

15. Ernest "Dutch" Morial (1929-1989) - New Orleans' first African-American Mayor. Tomb #2003 is a new tomb, which replaced an earlier family tomb.

16. Paul Morphy (1837-1884) - World famous chess champion. Tomb #366.

17. Homer Plessy (1862-1925) - Plaintiff in the landmark 1896 Supreme Court case, Plessy vs. Ferguson, which declared separate as being equal. This was overturned by another landmark case, Brown vs. the Board of Education in 1954. Tomb #619.

18. Carlos Trudeau (?-1816) - Surveyor General of Louisiana and a leading French and Spanish Colonial surveyor. Tomb #54.

19. Numerous veterans of all the wars fought by residents of the area.

DEATH OF MARIE LAVEAU

The Daily Picayune
June 17, 1881


A WOMAN WITH A WONDERFUL HISTORY, ALMOST A CENTURY OLD, CARRIED TO THE TOMB YESTERDAY EVENING

Those of you who have passed by the quaint old house on St. Ann, between Rampart and Burgundy streets, with the high, frail looking fence in front over which a tree or two is visible, have till within the last few years, noticed through the open gateway a decrepid old lady with snow white hair, and a smile of peace and contentment lighting up her golden features. For a few years past, she has been missed from her accustomed place. The feeble old lady lay upon her bed with the daughter and grandchildren around her ministering to her wants.

On Wednesday the invalid sank into the sleep which knows no waking. Those whom she had befriended crowded into the little room where she was exposed, in order to obtain a last look at the features, smiling even in death , of her who had been so kind to them.

At 5 o'clock yesterday evening, Marie Laveau was buried in her family tomb in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Her remains were followed to the grave by a large concourse of people, the most prominent and the most humble joining in paying their last respects to the dead. Father Mignot conducted the funeral services.

Marie Laveau was born ninety-eight years ago. Her father was a rich planter, who was prominent in all public affairs and served in the Legislature of this State. Her mother was Marguerite Henry, and her grandmother was marguerite Semard. All were beautiful women of color. The gift of beauty was hereditary in the family, and Marie inherited it in the fullest degree. When she was twenty-five years old, she was led to the altar by Jacques Paris, a carpenter. This marriage took place at the St. Louis Cathedral, Pere Antoine, of the beloved memory, conducting the service and Mr. Mazureau, the famous lawyer acting as witness. A year afterwards Mr. Paris disappeared and no one knows to this day what became of him. After waiting a year for his return she married Capt. Christophe Glapion. The latter was also very prominent here, and served with distinction in the battalion of men of San Domingo, under D'Aquilo , with Jackson in the war of 1815.

Fifteen children were the result of their marriage. Only one of those is now alive. Capt. Glapion died greatly regretted, on the 26th of June 1855. Five years afterwards, Marie Laveau became ill, and has been sick ever since, her indisposition becoming more pronounced and painful within the last ten years.

Besides being very beautiful, Marie was also very wise. She was skillful in the practice of medicine and was acquainted with the valuable healing qualities of indigenous herbs.

She as very successful as a nurse, wonderful stories being told of her exploits at the sick bed. In yellow fever and cholera epidemics she was always called upon to nurse the sick and always responded promptly. Her skill and knowledge earned her the friendship and approbation of those sufficiently cultivated but the ignorant attributed her success fo unnatural means and held her in constant dread.

Notably in 1853 a committee of gentlemen appointed at a mass meeting held at Globe Hall, waited on Marie and requested her on behalf o f the people to minister to the fever-stricken. She went out and fought the pestilence where it was thickest, and many alive to-day owe their salvation to her devotion.

Not alone to the sick was Marie Laveau a blessing. To help a fellow creature in distress she considered a priceless privilege. She was born in the same house where she died. Her motherd lived and died their before her. The unassuming cottage has stood for a century and a half. It was built by the first French settlers of adobe and not a brick was employed in its construction.

Whe it was erected it was considered the handsomest building in the neighborhood. Rampart street was not then in existence, being the skirt of a wilderness and latterly a line of entrenchment. Notwithstanding the decay of her little mansion, Marie made the sight of it pleasant to the unfortunate. At any time of night or day anyone was welcome to food and lodging.

Those in trouble had but to come to her and she would make their cause her own after undergoing great sacrifices in order to assist them.

Besides being charitable, Marie was very pious and took delight in strengthening the allegiance of souls to the church. She would sit with the condemned in their last moments and endeavor to turn their last thoughts to Jesus. Whenever a prisoner excited her pity, Marie would labor incessantly to obtain his pardon or at least a commutation of sentence, and she generally successful.

A few years ago, before she lost control of her memory, she was rich in interesting reminiscences of the early history of this city. She spoke often of the early history of this city. She spoke often of the young American Governor Caliborne and told how the child-wife he brought with him from Tennessee died of the yellow fever shortly after his arrival and with the dead babe upon her bosom was buried in a corner of the old American Cemetery. She spoke sometimes of the strange little man with the wonderful bright eyes, Aaron Burr, who was so police and so dangerous. She loved to talk to Lafayette, who visited New Orleans over half a century ago. The great Frenchman came to see her at her house and kissed her on the forehead at parting.

She remembered the old French general, Humbert, and was one of the few colored people who escorted to the tomb, long since dismantled, in the Catholic cemetery, the withered and grizzly remains of the hero of Castelbar. Probably she knew Father Antoine better than any living in those days - the he the priest and she the nurse met at the dying bedside of hundreds of people - able to close the faded eyes in death and he to waft the soul over the river to the realms of eternal joy.

All in all Marie Laveau was a most wonderful woman. Doing good for the sake of doing good alone, she obtained no reward, oft times meeting with prejudice and loathing, she was nevertheless contented and did not flag in her work. She always had the cause of the peplum at heart and was with them in all things. During the late rebellion, she proved her loyalty to the South at every opportunity and freely dispensed help to those who suffered in defense of the "lost cause." Her days were spent surrounded by sacred pictures and other evidence of religion, and she died with a firm trust in heaven. While God plays around the little tomb where her remains are buried, by the side of her second husband and her sons and daughters, Marie Laveau's name will not be forgotten in New Orleans.

Stepping Back in the Crescent City

There's a lot more to NEW ORLEANS - the "Big Easy," the "city that care forgot" - than its tourist image as a nonstop party town. The mixture of cultures and races that built the city still gives it its heart; not "easy" exactly, but quite unlike anywhere else in the States - or the world.


New Orleans began life in 1718 as a French-Canadian outpost, an unlikely set of shacks on a marsh. Its prime location near the mouth of the Mississippi River led to rapid development, and with the first mass importation of African slaves, as early as the 1720s, its unique demography began to take shape. Despite early resistance from its francophone population, the city benefited greatly from its period as a Spanish colony between 1763 and 1800. By the end of the eighteenth century, the port was flourishing, the haunt of smugglers, gamblers, prostitutes and pirates. Newcomers included Anglo-Americans escaping the American Revolution and aristocrats fleeing revolution in France. The city also became a haven for refugees - whites and free blacks, along with their slaves - escaping the slave revolts in Saint-Domingue.

As in the West Indies, the Spanish, French and free people of color associated and formed alliances to create a distinctive Creole culture with its own traditions and ways of life, its own patois, and a cuisine that drew influences from Africa, Europe and the colonies. New Orleans was already a many-textured city when it experienced two quick-fire changes of government, passing back into French control in 1801 and then being sold to America under the Louisiana Purchase two years later. Unwelcome in the Creole city - today's French Quarter - the Americans who migrated here were forced to settle in the areas now known as the Central Business District (or CBD) and, later, in the Garden District. Canal Street, which divided the old city from the expanding suburbs, became known as "the neutral ground" - the name still used when referring to the median strip between main roads in New Orleans.

Though much has been made of the antipathy between Creoles and Anglo-Americans, in truth economic necessity forced them to live and work together. They fought side by side in the 1815 Battle of New Orleans , the final battle of the War of 1812, which secured American supremacy in the States. The victorious general, Andrew Jackson, became a national hero - and eventually US president; his ragbag volunteer army was made up of Anglo-Americans, slaves, Creoles, free men of color and Native Americans, along with pirates supplied by the notorious buccaneer Jean Lafitte.



New Orleans' antebellum "golden age" as a major port and finance center for the cotton-producing South was brought to an abrupt end by the Civil War. The economic blow wielded by the lengthy Union occupation - which effectively isolated the city from its markets - was compounded by the social and cultural ravages of Reconstruction. This was particularly disastrous for a city once famed for its large, educated, free black population. As the North industrialized and other Southern cities grew, the fortunes of New Orleans took a downturn.


Jazz exploded into the bars and the bordellos around 1900, and along with the evolution of Mardi Gras as a tourist attraction, breathed new life into the city. And although the Depression hit here as hard as it did the rest of the nation it also heralded the resurgence of the French Quarter, which had disintegrated into a slum. Even so, it was the less romantic duo of oil and petrochemicals that really saved the economy. The city now finds itself in relatively stable condition with a strengthening economy based on tourism.

One of New Orleans' many nicknames is "the Crescent City," because of the way it nestles between the southern shore of Lake Pontchartrain and a dramatic horseshoe bend in the Mississippi River. This unique location makes the city's layout confusing, with streets curving to follow the river, and shooting off at odd angles to head inland. Compass points are of little use here - locals refer instead to lakeside (towards the lake) and riverside (towards the river), and using Canal Street as the dividing line, uptown (or upriver) and downtown (downriver).


Most visitors spend most time in the battered, charming old French Quarter (or Vieux Carré), site of the original settlement. The heartbreakingly beautiful French Quarter is where New Orleans began in 1718. Today, battered and bohemian, decaying and vibrant, it's the spiritual core of the city, its fanciful cast-iron balconies, hidden courtyards and time-stained stucco buildings exerting a haunting fascination that has long caught the imagination of artists and writers. Official tours are useful for orientation, but it's most fun simply to wander - and you'll need a couple of days at least to do it justice, absorbing the jumble of sounds, sights and smells.



Early morning in the pearly light from the river is a good time to explore, as sleepy locals wake themselves up with strong coffee in the neighborhood patisseries, shops crank open their shutters and all-night revelers stumble home.


The Quarter is laid out in a grid, unchanged since 1721. At just thirteen blocks wide - smaller than you might expect - it's easily walkable, bounded by the Mississippi River, Rampart Street, Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue, and centering on lively Jackson Square. Rather than French, the famed architecture is predominantly Spanish colonial, with a strong Caribbean influence. Most of the buildings date from the late eighteenth century, after much of the old city had been devastated by fires in 1788 and 1794. Commercial activity - shops, galleries, restaurants, bars - is concentrated in the blocks between Decatur and Bourbon. Beyond Bourbon, up towards Rampart Street, and in the Lower Quarter, downriver from Jackson Square, things become more peaceful - quiet, predominantly residential neighborhoods where the Quarter's gay community lives side by side with elegant dowagers and scruffy artists.

On the fringes of the French Quarter, the funky Faubourg Marigny creeps northeast from Esplanade Avenue, while the Quarter's lakeside boundary, Rampart Street, marks the beginning of the historic, run-down African-American neighborhood of Tremé. On the other side of the Quarter, across Canal Street, the CBD (Central Business District), bounded by the river and I-10, spreads upriver to the Pontchartrain Expressway. Dominated by offices, hotels and banks, it also incorporates the revitalizing Warehouse District and, towards the lake, the gargantuan Superdome. A ferry ride across the river from the foot of Canal Street takes you to the suburban west bank and the residential district of old Algiers.

Back on the east bank, it's an easy journey upriver from the CBD to the Garden District, an area of gorgeous old mansions, some of them in delectable ruin. The Lower Garden District, creeping between the expressway and Jackson, is quite a different creature, its run-down old houses filled with impoverished artists and musicians. The best way to get to either neighborhood is on the streetcar along swanky St Charles Avenue, the Garden District's lakeside boundary. You can also approach it from Magazine Street, a six-mile stretch of galleries and antique stores that runs parallel to St Charles riverside. Entering the Garden District, you've crossed the official boundary into uptown, which spreads upriver to encompass Audubon Park and Zoo.